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TL1000R

Power Connector Fix

 
     
     

The power connector mod restores the original electrical power of the bike -increase battery charging and ease of starting. This mod will fix poor starting, poor battery recharge, dimming dash, bike dies  for no reason -dash out with ignition ON.

The "Plus Mod", "Ground Mod", and "Charge Mod" are mods that overcome connector corrosion resistance by running new + and - connections to the battery, coils, and or frame. When the mod is performed in this way the main fuse and an electrical filter is bypassed. All these mods can restore your TLs performance but I believe you should do the "Power Connector Fix" (shown below) before you do those other mods. In other words, if you are having electrical issues, fix them. Once they are fixed, then mod all you want.

Also, if you are on your bike with it running and in gear and you kick the side stand and your bike shuts off, then fix your side stand switch :) This problem is coming up more often as the side stand switches age and are exposed to the elements. I haven't had this problem YET but when I do I will of course put up a page of how I fixed it.

The pictures below are of  the main fuse block right off the positive side of the battery also known as the "Starter Relay". The pins that are corroded are from the four pin plug connector that plugs directly into the block. Simply break away the casing around the pins and solder the wires to the respective pins.

Main Terminal Corrosion 1

This is the plug part of the relay/ fuse block with the surroundings broken away and the leads bent so that you can see the corrosion.

Main Terminal Corrosion 2

Soldered

Heat shrinked and taped

If you follow the positive wire on the battery terminal you will find a black box with a fuse on it -actually a fuse (the close one to you) and a spare (the inside one). This is the called the "Starter Relay" but is also responsible for passing + power to the bike.

There is a plug connection coming into the top of the "Starter Relay"/ fuse block -that is the issue. What you do is eliminate the plug by soldering the wires directly to the connections. Do not open the relay, just use a pair of needle nose pliers to break away the casing around the pins to expose them. We will refer to this black box/ starter relay/ fuse block as the "block" in the following instructions;
1)Disconnect the + from the battery
2)Disconnect the red and black wire from the block (black goes on the inside in case you for get when putting it together
3)Disconnect the plug
4)pull the block up -it will cone out of the rubber mounting
5)Break away the plastic sides of the plug connection on the block that surround the connection tabs -you can see that I have done that in my pic (the nasty looking one)
6)Clean the little tabs and tin the tabs (thinly coat them with solder)
7)Cut ONE wire -strip a little, slide some heat shrink on the wire way up high on the wire so the heat from soldering doesn't shrink it before it is in place. Solder the wire to its proper tab. Repeat this step for each wire one at a time insuring that each wire is in the right spot (you can see where they go in my pic if you get messed up.
8)Slide the heat shrink down over the exposed connections (if the heat shrink is tight don't shrink it as it may split)
9)Tape the wires together and then tape the harness cover as I have shown
10) put everything back